What a great name for a route. AND its a super route, but in my very female opinion… its a bit sandbag at the grades.
Senja Palonen and I had a super day on this newer route that lives in the Dihedrals on the Chief between Millenium Falcon and Freeway. Every pitch is quality climbing and very sustained at the grades that are posted on the topo at http://www.quickdrawpublications.com.
We were both traumatized by the last pitch of run-out “5.8” chim, and some thin traversing gear and moves to get there.
If you are not brave, definitely take the ‘chicken’ out 5.6 option. Otherwise, you can fully embrace the chimney and the 1 (thank-god) bolt that the first ascentionist reluctantly added.
Senja had some fantastic leads on the earlier 5.11 pitches and we both really enjoyed the quality of the climbing.
I recommend this route to the very solid 5.11 climber. Oh, and as far as I could tell you can get off this route with a 70m rope.