Conditions

Fantastic Conditions

Fantastic Conditions

Conditions are spectacular in the Rockies these days. Relatively low avalanche hazard, fat ice and reasonable temperatures. Its heaven for winter climbers.

A few highlights from my past week of climbing with Kyle Vassilopoulos:

Montana Boy

1st week climbing in the Canadian Rockies

We went to the Haffner cave and climbed on Caveman and Neolithic in brutally cold conditions, likely colder than -20 degrees Celcius–definitely out of condition ; )

the back of the cave is warmer than freezing, but pretty humid

the back of the cave is warmer than freezing, but pretty humid

I was psyched to send Caveman again despite the freezing pain or lack of feeling all together in my hands and feet. Luckily the rest of our week was much warmer.

Amazing skies in the Canadian Rockies

Amazing skies in the Canadian Rockies

Slaughterhouse climbs the rock behind the first pillar of Ice Nine

Slaughterhouse climbs the rock behind the first pillar of Ice Nine

We headed up to the Icefields Parkway and enjoyed the awe of many blue ribbons gracing new cliff bands. We finally decided on Slaughterhouse M8. Unfortunately, we had to put the trail in and clear off the daggers/curtain at the top of the climb, but of course the reward is greater when you have to work for it. What a fantastic climb, well bolted, with fun moves on great hooks. We were both psyched to redpoint the route.  Thanks to the 1st ascentionists!

Kyle crushing the final moves of the route

Kyle crushing the final moves of the route

Because we love epic drives in the Rockies (not), we decided to up the ante and drive to the Bull River Canyon for a ‘team Canada’ day with Gordon MacArthur and Nathan Kutcher. We drove over 12 hours in 2 days! But it was worth it.

We enjoyed really ‘fat’ conditions on El Matador.

I'm working the opening crux moves

I’m working the opening crux moves

Finally, the condition of my ankle is not so good. Early in my final training session in Calgary yesterday, I fell off and landed with my foot between 2 mats. I sprained my ankle. It will be fine with taping, but yesterday and today it has been quite swollen and painful.

I felt disappointed not to be able to train and climb yesterday and today, especially with all the travel i am anticipating in the next couple days. Oh boo hoo for me… of course this has left me lots of time to procrastinate on packing!

I am off to Korea tomorrow, traveling with Nathan Kutcher.

Let the adventure begin…

Advertisements

Leave a comment

Filed under Friends, Ice Climbing, inspiration

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s