Montana’s Winter Dance


The Winter Dance hangs proudly above Hyalite Canyon

As viewed from many locations in Hylite canyon…

Winter Dance hasn’t formed like this for several years… its a good year to get on it, we were told. I had already wanted to head in that direction as I had heard that a new route called the Nutcracker would be good to go, but as it turns out… not quite yet. This was the best consolation prize I could hope for.

The best part of climbing this route was reading the history of it and imagining what it must of been like to be the first people to attempt this route ‘back in the day’ (when dinosaurs roamed the planet). Far out, intimidating and bold!

Despite the Bozeman Ice festival being in town, we managed to have the route to ourselves. Luckily we found the approach, in the dark, in a reasonable amount of time (2 hours) with only a couple detours. There was a well beat in trail.

P1: M4 spice, Tim used 2x#1BD, 0.75, and an orange Metolius. As well as a couple ice screws.

P2: M8 or A0 bolts (12 QD)

P3: rock traverse into ice, WI 6 (for us it was very hooked out)

P4: WI 5, rappel the route in 3 raps with 60’s.

Tim McAllister and I were so psyched to have the weather, conditions and beta to get us up this route. We felt like it was such a gift given by all those who climbed the route before us, not only this season but in this lifetime. Hats off to all the Bozeman locals who have made Winter Dance a great outing in a spectacular position.


Tim with his eye on the prize


Traversing into the base on exposed 3rd & 4th class terrain. Crampons make it more secure.


Tim on the 1st pitch: M4 spice


Me following the 1st pitch- so fun on TR


An onsight attempt on the 2nd pitch, nice bolts!


Warm yet?


I really enjoyed this pitch…


so did Tim…


Tim gets some more spice moving onto the ice protected by an old pecker…


Go Timmy Go


Chimney moves are rewarded on the last pitch πŸ™‚


Pure FUN


Nice Pack πŸ˜‰


Yay, we lucked out πŸ™‚


Time for a redpoint on the way down… fun in the sun.


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Filed under Friends, Ice Climbing, Multi-pitch climbing

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